Tips When Buying A Motorcycle

I bought my first vehicle yesterday. It is a Lexmoto Michigan motorcycle. I know what people usually say about Chinese motorcycles but I decided to take the risk. It isn’t as I am going to be racing with this motorcycle. The most I will do is cruise around the streets and learn how to drive a motorcycle better. Eventually when I pass my theory and practical tests, I will buy a better motorcycle and keep the Lexmoto to play around with, as it is not worth much second hand. For now, I am happy with buying a Chinese motorcycle.

I should be picking up the motorcycle this upcoming Monday. I am excited and scared. Excited, as I will finally own my first vehicle and scared that my motorcycle will be the same as hundreds of other Chinese motorcycles: made of bad quality.

Before I decided to buy a Lexmoto, I researched on what I should look for when buying a motorcycle. I created a document with all my notes and I am going to share them online in case for anyone else who might be looking to purchase a motorcycle.

I have broken down the list into three sections: inspection, test, and paperwork. These tips apply mainly to buying a second hand motorcycle. If you are buying the motorcycle hand, try to buy it from a reputable dealership. I bought my motorcycle from a dealership brand new. This was because Chinese bikes are cheap. Altogether, to get my motorcycle on the road, which includes gear (helmets, gloves), lock, insurance, breakdown-cover, and the motorcycle itself, it cost me under £2300 ($3620). I could have brought the cost down but I spend a little bit more on certain items as I liked the way they looked and the cheaper options did not meet my standards. Before I forget, in a couple of weeks I will create a new blog post talking about how my motorcycle is doing, whether it is time to start trusting Chinese motorcycles or I wasted £1500 on a piece of junk.

Now, without further ado, here are the tips on buying your first motorcycle.

Inspect the Bike

• Sit on the bike and look at the condition of the following items for any signs of an accident or drop:
• Brake and clutch levers
• Bar-end weights
• Straightness of the bars
• Instrument cluster
• Engine case
• Foot pegs
• Exhaust pipes
• Check the condition of the drive chain and sprocket:
• Chain should have ¾ of play (up and down) and the teeth of the sprocket should not show obvious damage or wear
• Wiggle the chain side to side on the sprocket – there should not be much movement on a good set
• Sit on the motorcycle and make sure the chain is somewhat snug, with very little movement up and down
• Look at the brake fluid level:
• This is usually on top of the handlebars in an enclosure clear window
• With the engine running, pull hard on the front brakes level and release while watching the fluid level:
• It should fall and rise (it should rise quickly once the brake is released)
• Suspension:
• Bounce the bike separately at the back and front to check the damping action works
• Remove the seat and check the voltage of the battery terminal using a multi-meter:
• It should read no less than 12 volts when idle
• It should read no more than 14 volts or so while running
• Check the batter terminals and overall appearance of the battery

Test the brakes:

• Put the bike on its center stand if so equipped and turn the bars side to side to feel for any ‘notchy-ness’ or roughness in the steering head
• Check the visible frame (remove the seat to see underneath it also) to make sure there are no dents, kings, or visible damage to the frame. If there is, walk away
• Check the frame for fatigue at weld points
• Check that the lights, indicators and horns work
• Check brake caliper to see how much of the pads are left
• The tires should have good tread all the way across the surface with no signs of uneven wear or damage
• Check for leaks around the oil filter and oil pan bolt
• Open the fuel tank and check for obvious signs of rust or corrosion
• Inspect the overall condition of the engine block, plugs, and radiator

Test Drive

• Take a test drive on a route you are familiar with
• Listen for any unusual engine noises, suspension creaking or rattling and any undue vibrations – ask any questions if you have doubts
• Accelerate through the gears:
• They should feel firm and not slip out of gear under acceleration or feel ‘clunky’
• Test the brakes:
• They should not ‘pulse’ – that is a signed of warped disks
• They should engage smoothly and evenly and not grab violently or feel spongy
• Inspect the bike again after the ride:
• Look for any leaks or drips
• Check the oil – through either the sight glass or, when the engine cools, the dipstick if so equipped:
• Most semi or full synthetic oils will darken after only a few miles – that is completely normal

Paperwork

• Ask for an owner’s manual and factory toolkit if available
• Request the service history:
• Check if the mileage matches the service history/bills
• Check if there is a V5 registration document:
• Genuine ones have a watermark
• Hold the V5C up to the light to check the ‘DVL’ watermark is there. If not, the document may be a forgery
• UK specific advice:
• Check the motorcycle information from the DVLA
• Check the MOT history of a motorcycle
• Check the current MOT status of a motorcycle
• Don’t buy the motorcycle if the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) has been tampered with or is missing:
• It is usually on a metal plate somewhere on the steering head
• Check that the VIN and engine number match those on the V5C
• Be realistic when negotiating on the final price of the bike:
• Do some research online:
• Use the retail pricing guides if available or read the bike classifieds to get a fair market value of the bike